We fled the state before the last frontier fell. All around us, people were falling like nine pins. Some couldn’t move their hip, some their joints, some had rashes as red as tomato on their face, some just dropped down in a sudden attack that sapped the last ounce of energy in their body.
The war isn’t bloody, but of blood. The enemy is small in size but, it needs your blood to survive, and it gets it anyhow.
Kerala, the lush-green south Indian state of high-profile tourist attraction, has been blessed by nature in many ways. There aren’t any of the climatic extremes that other Indian states come under. The people have high standards in literacy and political awareness, and the state supplies a major chunk of the Arabian Gulf’s expatriate workforce.
Every year monsoon rains mark the beginning of the academic year. Fresh minds go to schools under colourful umbrellas. The slanting raindrops drench their smiles and wet their uniforms. Those who work abroad come home in monsoon to experience the rains. Kerala celebrates the south-west monsoon, which begins at the southern-most tip and runs along the western coast high up the northern India.
But this monsoon, a virulent viral fever has swept across the central-south parts of the state, claiming nearly 200 lives so far and affecting hundreds of thousands of people. It was chikungunya to begin with, but now doctors say there are a few variants of the viral attack.
Our lack of knowledge of what’s happening back home didn’t discourage us from buying our flight tickets in peak holiday season. It was only after we got our tickets in our hands did we see the banner headlines in Malayalam newspapers about the fever that plagued the central part of the state where we would be staying at least half of our month-long holiday.
There were large illustrations of the villain on the front pages of all Malayalam newspapers: mosquitoes. They are spreading the virus across the state, sucking blood from thousands and helping the vengeful virus go bodies.
Friends had warned. “Be careful, especially with Jeena.” Jeena, my wife, is recovering from hemiphlegia, the remnant of the post-partum stroke she suffered two years ago.
Even when we landed at a waterlogged Trivandrum airport and drove home through the silver of lush rain, little worried were we about the virus. In fact, we were in the dark about its virility. Flying in from Dubai where it was sweltering summer, we marvelled at the rain, breathed in the smell of soggy soil and wet wind.
The newspapers continued to lead with the death toll in reverse despite the chief minister’s historic determination to demolish the hill-station resorts constructed on government land. Day after day, mosquitoes won the battle for media prominence over VS Achuthanthan’s attack on lobbies.
When the villagers first heard of chikungunya, they stopped eating chicken. Poultry farmers cried foul and declared that their breadwinners had nothing to do with the virus that crippled the state. Health Department cleared the air and saved the chicken from gourmet disgrace.
Chikungunya—transmitted by the Aedes Aegypti mosquito—was first detected in 1955 in Africa and last year caused the deaths of around 200 people on the French Indian Ocean island of Reunion. Aedes Aegypti is distinguished by zebra-like white markings on its body
The name of the disease is derived from the Swahili word for “stooped walk," reflecting the physique of a person suffering from the disease whose symptoms include sudden fever, chills, headache, nausea, vomiting and joint pain.
Both poultry business and viral fever continued to flourish.
We travelled to Thumpamon, my wife’s house, in Pathanamthitta district—the epicentre of the viral outbreak and one of the worst-affected areas. With acres of rubber plantation, Pathanamthitta hosted thousands of mosquitoes in the coconut shells which are used to collect rubber sap.
All around our house, people fell sick by the day. Those who walked head high yesterday, stooped around in pain today. Medical shops had run out of medicines, and bakers rusks and buns—a usual diet of someone down with fever or flu.
My father-in-law played forehands and backhands with an electric, racquet-shaped mosquito killer. He went into each room and waved the racquet from corner to corner and from curtain to table cloth. He killed a quite a few every night and smiled triumphantly each time a mosquito was burnt to ashes.
But, one morning my wife’s mother couldn’t get up from her bed. In hours, she grew weak and pale. When I took her to a nearby hospital, the emergency unit had patients stacked like sardines. And more were coming in by the minute.
They sent mummy home after a few hours. Not that she was better but there were worse cases and there was a shortage of beds. The fever left after a few days but the pain remains, even after three weeks.
My wife and I said that there was only one way out: Believe that we were living in Goshen, the biblical place where the Jehova’s people lived when He brought plague of many kinds on the Egyptians. “Let’s believe we are in Goshen.”
We drove back to Varkala, my place, in Trivandrum district. The fever followed. In one of our neighbouring houses, six people were down. “This is my fifth trip to the hospital,” said my neighbour, who himself was in hospital for two weeks. His sister had “tomato fever”. She had red and round rashes on her face.
Everyone in the two houses opposite ours fell one by one. The fever left after a few days but the pain in the joints and hip remained. My schoolmate and neighbour who runs a busy poultry and goat farm was transfigured from a healthy, hard-working man to an apparition of his old self in a day. He wobbled into a taxi to a hospital. His staff fell one after the other. His business limped to a painful stop.
The doctor who lives a couple of houses away, who runs a clinic, stopped his car to greet me, and all he spoke was about the versions of the virus. “It is viral fever but the symptoms in two patients in one house are different.” He said vector control was of no use as the mosquitoes continued to lay eggs in the creaks and fissures on the bark of trees. “What will you do when they do it (laying eggs) high up in the trees? How far will you go fogging?” He said even the eggs were infected and the new-born mosquitoes carried the virus.
Dr CR Soman of Health Action for People said: ''You cannot have dramatic measures by which you can control the Aedes mosquito. The very breeding pattern of the Aedes mosquito is so congenial, especially in a rain-fed state like Kerala. One rain and for the next 10 days you have hundreds of small collections of water in which the Aedes mosquito can lay eggs and breed a new generation.''
The Opposition party did what all Opposition parties do—they conducted state-wide hartals to protest against the government’s “failure” to control the fever. They said the chief minister should try and get rid of the mosquitoes rather than the lobby that had built resorts on government land. The chief minister continued to prefer JCBs to electric-racquets.
We watched the viral fever playing the role of a great leveller as retired professors, vendors, daily-wage labourers, auto-rickshaw drivers, newspaper boys, housewives, husbands, servants, actors and actresses, teachers, engineers and doctors fell bitten by Aedes Aegypti mosquito.
We coined new phrases: “Once bitten, three weeks sick”. We recommended a correction: “beware of dogs” to “beware of mosquitoes”. And, we said Keralites now prefer dog bites to mosquito bites.
Reports say about 1,000,000 people were affected in four districts of the state, and blame the government for the epidemic.
Investigative newspaper Tehelka reported: “Is the much trumpeted Kerala health model deteriorating? Given the nature of epidemics wreaking havoc in the erstwhile Travancore-Kochi region, it seems so. This year itself, till July 16, as many as 193 persons died due to the outbreak of various kinds of viral fevers including Chikungunya in the state. Though the Union health ministry and a number of research agencies continue to swear that Chikungunya is not a deadly disease, doctors working in the affected areas have nothing else to blame for. With the surfacing of a few Dengue fever cases from the same region, there are enough indications that the state is sliding into a public health quagmire.
“As many as 8.75 lakh people suffered viral infections since May this year and about 8,011 among them are still undergoing treatment at different hospitals. So far, 157 cases of Chikungunya have been identified. A state which had been boasting of its high level of vaccination and its preparedness to fight any epidemic is rattled by these developments.”
We watched the fun, till it crossed our walls. First, the aunt who takes care of our cooking woke up one morning with pain in her ankle and in no time began to shiver. She came back from hospital old and blown.
We began packing.
On the eve of our early morning departure to a mosquito-free Dubai, my sister, who had been looking after our two babies, clutched around her hip and looked for a bed. She could barely get up to make some coffee for us before we left for the airport at 2 am. She was our last frontier.
We flew out of Kerala before sun-up. We went chasing the monsoon but fled the fever that has withered the leafy state.
The world has come to this “God’s Own Country”, hailed by some of the highly influential travel publications as one of the world’s 50 must-see destinations. Now let’s see how far the thin and designer-wear-clad Aedes Aegypti can keep the tourists away.
As we were driving home in an acrimonious Middle East summer, my sister phoned up to say she’s got tomatoes on her face.
My wife held my hand with her right hand, stretching over her recovering left hand, and said: “Goshen!”